Basement waterproofing and crawl space repair in CO

Moisture Protection, Epoxy, and Other Maintenance in Colorado Springs

Thu, 02 Feb 2012 10:56:32 -0500

When foundation walls are exposed during a foundation piering installation, or wall anchoring project, it can be an ideal time to check for maintenace opportunities.

You can choose to address moisture protection or waterproofing problems that may not have been apparent from the interior of your basement. Dampness, efflorescence, and concrete erosion could be due to water sitting up against the concrete foundation walls. Once the soil has been removed from around a foundation, it's a good idea to check for three maintenance issues:

*Clogged, or crushed footing drains
*Cracks in foundation walls
*Moisture intrusion evidenced by efflorescence

Clogged Footing Drains
The average footing drain clogs with Colorado's silty clay in about 25 years--sooner in some areas. If your home was built before 1987 or so, it is likely that your original footing drain is clogged, if one was installed at all. If your home was built after 1987, your footing drain needs to be checked to see if it has been crushed. If your home is resting on clay soil, the drain may also be clogged.

Clogged or crushed footing drains will allow groundwater to enter your basement or crawlspace. Once water has found a way into your home, it is more and more likely to happen again. Footing drains can be replaced or upgraded to a French Drain system during a foundation repair, making it extremely affordable to have both services done at once.

Cracked Foundation Walls
Cracks in foundation walls can be epoxied from the outside or the inside during a foundation repair project for very little extra cost. Most epoxies are waterproof, which ensures the cracks won't weep water later.

Moisture Intrusion Evidenced by Efflorescence
If you notice a decrease in wall dampness, musty smell, or relative humidity while the foundation repair project is going on, it is important to look to moisture intrusion post installation. Wall dampness can be minimized by channeling that dampness into your existing waterproofing system through the use of Brightwall or other wall damp proofing products.

Brightwall and its generic products create a barrier on the inside if the basement that keeps dampness wicking through the concrete to reach the drywall in a basement.

One Stop Shopping?
It's a good idea to hire a company that is equipped to handle all of these concerns as they arise during a foundation repair product. When you meet with a Systems Design Specialist, be sure to ask if these sorts of sudden issues can be handled by their installation crews.

Why We Call Them French Drains

Tue, 24 Jan 2012 13:21:24 -0500

Why is it called a French Drain?

Doesn't it sounds slightly dirty? A French drain. Maybe Cosmo will have an article on it soon. Actually, a French drain isn't exotic, sophisticated, or a featured article topic in Cosmo.

What is a French Drain?

French drains are trenches filled with gravel and perforated pipe that are sloped and designed to move groundwater runoff away from your basement or crawlspace foundation into a sump pump. The sump pump will evacuate the water from your home through a discharge line. The whole system usually takes 3 days or so to install and is pretty much automatically expelling water with no real labor required.

Why is it called a French Drain?

The French Drain isn't native to France--in fact, French Drains are an American invention! It's named after its inventor--Henry Flagg French, who literally wrote the book on farm drainage that was published in Concord, Massachusetts in 1859. French drains were originally used to reroute water runoff from a sloping piece of land to be used productively elsewhere. The French drain was also quickly adapted to remove brown or gray water runoff from barns, farmhouses, and the like. Prior to Henry French’s invention, animal and human brown water often gathered in livestock areas, producing a breeding ground for biting flies and mosquitoes, which sickened valuable animals and even the farmers themselves!

Similarly, modern French Drains are used to move water out and away from basements and crawlspaces where it can promote mold and mildew growth. Modern French Drains have come a long way from those farm-based drains on Henry French’s place. Presently, there have been technological advances that keep groundwater runoff running smoothly without the constant clogging that early French Drains experienced. There are now “top-closed” systems that allow for finished basements that are undetectable to the naked eye! Similarly, sump pumps have come a long way, too. Modern French Drain systems can now carry lifetime flood protection warranties and maintenance programs to keep your basement ground water free forever!

Upcoming Events in Colorado Springs

Fri, 20 Jan 2012 15:39:01 -0500

Next Week!

Tune in on Tuesday to 1300 AM at 10am to hear Aaron Moore talk about What to Fix Before You Finish Your Basement!

You can hear all of Aaron's shows by clicking here

Upcoming Home Shows:

January 27-29 at the Rustic Hills Event Center on Palmer Park and Academy--you can come Meet Fuzzi, the Peak Basement Systems Rose Haired Tarantula! She'll be busy hanging out in our Live crawlspace display! http://www.coloradospringshomeshow.com/

February 24--26 at the Norris-Penrose Event Center near 8th Street--you can visit Fuzzi and learn more about the foundation, waterproofing, and crawlspace concerns in the Pikes Peak Region! http://homeshowcenter.com/Visitors/hoursdirections.aspx?show=coloradospringhomeshow2

Upcoming Continuing Education Class for Realtors and Home Inspectors:

How Bricks are Made

Tue, 10 Jan 2012 11:21:31 -0500

Have you ever wondered why Colorado Springs has so many early homes with brick foundations, or homes from the 1940s through 1970s are brick construction? That's due to two things:

1. Clay is the most common material from which bricks are constructed.

2. The Front Range's soil is mainly a silty clay--perfect for making bricks from

For efficient handling and laying bricks must be small enough and light enough to be picked up by the bricklayer using one hand (leaving the other hand free for the trowel). Bricks are usually laid flat and as a result the effective limit on the width of a brick is set by the distance which can conveniently be spanned between the thumb and fingers of one hand, normally about four inches (about 101 mm). In most cases, the length of a brick is about twice its width, about eight inches (about 203 mm) or slightly more. This allows bricks to be laid bonded in a structure to increase its stability and strength.

The wall is built using alternating courses of stretchers, bricks laid longways and headers, bricks laid crossways. The headers tie the wall together over its width. This is why brick structures have stair step crack patterns when the structure settles. The way that bricks are laid leads the settlement load to pull stretchers and headers apart.

Starting in the twentieth century, the use of brickwork declined in many areas due to earthquakes. The San Francisco earthquake of 1906 revealed the weaknesses of brick buildings in earthquake-prone areas. Most buildings in San Francisco collapsed during the earthquake, due to the cement-based mortar used to hold the bricks together. During seismic events, the mortar cracks and crumbles, and the bricks are no longer held together.

Additionally, the lifespan of mortar is significantly less than the lifespan of brick. Mortar instability and degradation leads ultimately to structural problems like settling, cracking, and bowing! There is a solution to this situation--tuckpointing. Tuckpointing is the removal of the old grout through scraping and reapplying a fresh grout or mortar compound. THis restores the structural integrity of a brick wall; however, it's important to have foundation settling or bowing issues resolved before tuckpointing because many gaps or stair step cracks will shrink during a foundation lift.

Frequently Asked Questions: Moving Forward with my Project

Wed, 02 Nov 2011 15:38:39 -0400

Hey Peak, What Happens Now?

This question comes in all forms and tones. You've just signed a contract with your Design Specialist, you've submitted a deposit and you're wondering what happens next. Here's a brief description of what happens after
that:

1. Your Design Specialist submits his estimate to the office for approval. He fills out all the appropriate request forms for the engineer and compiles a list of supplies that your project will require. He makes all sorts of notes
about the specifics that you and he agreed upon. When that file is complete and accurate, you receive a phone call and email from our office, letting you know that your project has been submitted to the engineer for design.

2. The engineer, whether third party, or in house, crunches the numbers, checks the design, pulls reports and overall verifies that the proposal meets the design standards set forth by the manufacturer and the building
department. When he has finished up, we submit the paperwork for a permit.

3. Our Production Department takes over in Step 3 and submits all the paperwork to the local building department to get a permit. This process takes between 4 and 14 days depending on the building department.

4. Once the permit has been approved, we contact you to schedule the installation.

5. When an installation date is on the calendar, we call UNCC to get utility locates completed on your property.

6. As the installation date approaches, you will receive a handshake phone call from your project foreman. He's going to introduce himself, verify that he has all your questions answered, let you know about what time that
the crew should arrive and more.

7. The project is installed. There will be 2 inspections during the course of the install from local building department representatives. After the final inspection, the permit is usually closed in 1-3 business days and your
project is complete.

8. Once the final payment is received, we activate your warranty and send you a final invoice showing that you are paid in full. Voila! You have a paper trail that shows that your home's foundation repair project was
completed.

Frequently Asked Questions: Warranties

Wed, 02 Nov 2011 14:51:23 -0400

Does Peak offer warranties for the work that they perform?
Absolutely. The warranties are present in your contract and you receive a foil stamped copy for future homeowners as a courtesy.

Even though it’s rare, there are sometimes reasons that a company needs to return to your home to correct or adjust a foundation solution. Minimally, of course, a legitimate company will provide you with a warranty to protect you and your home in the event that the improbable occurs. But, what then? Has the company consistently, promptly honored its warranty promises? Or, has it frequently found itself as a defendant in cases of litigation or arbitration from disgruntled homeowners?

Are these warranties transferable if I sell my home?
Yes and at no cost to you or the future homeowner. Most Americans change residences, for one reason or another, every 3-5 years. When the transaction occurs, foundation repairs must be disclosed to the new buyers. Even if your home’s foundation issues are completely resolved, a buyer will still want protection against possible future problems. That’s why it’s important for the company you choose to warranty the home—regardless of who lives in it. “Lifetime” warranties are great, but if they are non-transferrable, they may prove, in real experience, to actually provide just a few years of protection and bring you no value whatsoever when it comes time to sell the home.

Frequently Asked Questions: Building Departments and Permits

Wed, 02 Nov 2011 14:47:37 -0400

Is Peak Basement Systems appropriately licensed with my building department?
Yes. We obtain the proper licensing for any municipal or regional building department in which we are going to be installing a project. What's the difference? Some areas are served by municipal inspectors. Others, by consolidated, county-wide departments sometimes referred to as “Regional” building departments. Anyone can throw phrases like “Licensed & Insured” on a business card. Don’t take chances– contact your local Building Department and find out.

Why does it take so long to get a permit? Can I obtain the permit myself?
In most areas, if a contractor is hired for work that requires a permit, the contractor must be licensed and registered with the local Building Dept. A contractor cannot obtain a permit unless their license is current and in good standing. In cases that involve structual changes to the home, an engineer must design a plan and have that plan reviewed by the building department before they will issue a permit. In some cases, this review goes very quickly, other times, the building department may elect to do further research into the project specs and this can cause delays in obtaining the permit. Yes, you can obtain a permit only if you are performing the work on your home and you reside there. You are expected to know the applicable codes and are responsible to insure that the work passes inspections. Never obtain a permit for a contractor—this is illegal and transfers all liability for injuries and work to you.

What happens if a permit is not obtained?
If the work requires a permit and the project comes to the attention of the building authorities, a STOP WORK ORDER is issued and remains in effect until the permit is obtained– typically, after fines and/or other punitive measures are resolved. Work performed without a permit is often discovered before the resale of a home—this can impede or cancel the sale, and results in you, the homeowner, being responsible for paying fees to obtain permits and inspections to verify code compliance.

Frequently Asked Questions: Engineering

Wed, 02 Nov 2011 14:39:43 -0400

Why does it take 4-7 days for the engineer to design the work--didn't my Design Specialist already do that?
It can seem weird that it takes a while to get engineering completed, especially when your Design Specialist has already taken measurements and proposed a solution to the engineer. However, it's really the engineer who crunches the numbers, checks the soils, does extensive research into project and determines if the proposed solution will be functional for the problem that we're correcting. The engineer will interface with the Design Specialist and the homeowner to insure that the best solution is installed. All of this takes time to bring together into a proposal that can be submitted to the building department to obtain a permit.

Are the products being used by Peak designed for the soil conditions and problems that I am experiencing?
With so many products on the market, most of us rely on our chosen company to tell us which solution is right for us. Unfortunately, some solutions just aren’t ideal for the soil conditions present in Colorado’s Front Range and urban areas. For example, concrete erodes quickly when exposed to soil sulfates (naturally occurring salts found in the soils of many areas of Colorado), just like your sidewalk or driveway deteriorate rapidly if you use table salt to melt winter ice off of them. In the same way, cabled, segmented concrete piles can be particularly vulnerable to sulfite attack, and may not retain their structural integrity over the long haul. Another potential issue is when a product is used for an application for which it was not intended, such as using a square shaft pier to support a vertical load. These products were designed to resist pull out (tension) forces, not to bear the weight (compression) of a structure. Premature failure may result.

Thankfully, there are plenty of products available to remedy settling, heaving, bowing, or bending foundations that will work in Colorado's silty clay soil. Engineers take the unique soil conditions present on your property into account when designing the best solution to remedy your foundation problem.

Frequently Asked Questions: Site Specific Conditions

Fri, 28 Oct 2011 12:29:23 -0400

Site Specific Conditions

I don't know about you, but I don't usually spend my life reading engineer reports about the condition of my home's foundation. Frankly, it's something I want to avoid if at all possible--unless it's really good news.

My job, on the other hand, often leads me to reading through piles of engineer reports trying to develop materials to help clients. I'll be honest, it's slow work. One phrase that trips me up each and every time is "site specific conditions". Engineering reports frequently use the term to describe why one portion of a home is prone to heaving, or why a particular project may require additional piers or anchors.

What are site specific conditions?
A site specific condition is something that can't be anticipated and generally requires changes to the scope of work. These situations occur because a structural engineer or evaluator scopes a property without destroying landscaping, drywall, and other finishes. It's generally a good idea because a client may or may choose to move forward with a project at that point and it would be extremely distressing to have to repair a torn up yard just because someone was investigating what was wrong with your home. Instead, the evaluator or engineer makes educated extrapolations about what's under the ground based on what is above it.

In some cases, the ground can be hiding something that requires the crew to adjust their plan for installation. At that point, the crew foreman must notify the evaluator and the engineer, so they can start working on a change. These changes will have to be sent to the homeowner for approval, the building department to amend the permit, and possibly even utilities or other location services for new markings to be made.

The easiest site specific conditions to point out are the following:
--After excavation is completed, a crack is found all the way through the footing
--During excavation, severe footing degradation is discovered
--During excavation, it is discovered that a foundation does not have rebar present
--While removing a slab, caissons or prior mudjacking are discovered

Why do they matter?
Each of these scenarios affects the scope of work being performed--either adding to the amount of days on the job, increases to the number of piers needed, or an alteration of a repair plan.

After excavation is completed, a crack is found all the way through the footing:
--If this is a piering project, it will be necessary to place a pier on each side of the crack, which would mean an extra cost to the homeowner
--There is also a question of whether the property should be lifted, or simply stabilized

During excavation, severe footing degradation is discovered:
--This changes the scope of the project and the crew will need to reinforce the footing before any work can be done.
--The homeowner will need to decide if they are willing to have the crew present for additional days.
--The engineer will need to determine if the footing can withstand the pressures of a pier installation

During excavation, it is discovered that a foundation does not have rebar present:
--If this is a piering project, then the engineer will need to determine if the foundation can be lifted at all, or just stabilized.
--If this is a wall anchoring project, then the engineer will need to determine if the wall can be straightened, or just stabilized.
--The homeowner will need to weigh the risks vs. rewards of straightening or lifting if the engineer believes it possible.

While removing a slab, caissons or prior mudjacking are discovered:
--If this is a slab pier project, the increased slab thickness can present engineering problems
--If this is a tear out and replace situation, it will take the crew longer to complete the job and increase haul-away costs
--If caissons are discovered under a foundation, they will need to be cut before piers can be installed.

What do I do when confronted with a change in project based on site specific conditions?
Here's how the situation usually comes to fruition:
Best Case: Your installation crew finds a site specific condition that requires some sort of change, so they contact the Production Manager, Design Specialist and/or Engineer immediately. If the situation isn't a big deal, they will receive small revisions or instructions and you will be notified of what plan is in place.
Medium Case: Your installation crew finds a site specific condition that requires addition or subtraction of wall anchors, piers, or other equipment (like the cracked footing situation we described above). Everyone is notified of the possible outcomes and decides on a course of action together.
Worst Case: The site conditions are so severe that the project, or certain portions of it, must be overhauled, undone, or abandoned. This has so rarely occurred that I wasn't certain exactly what would happen until I spoke to our engineer. He said that at that point, he and the customer and the evaluator would go back to the drawing board and reassess the whole situation.

It's not just having a warranty that matters, it's honoring that warranty.

Fri, 28 Oct 2011 12:16:22 -0400

The Service Company you choose matters
It’s not just having a warranty that matters—it’s honoring that warranty.

The Service Company that You Choose to Work for You Does Matter
You’re making a long term investment in your home. It’s not something that you do everyday and it’s never something to take lightly, right? Wouldn’t it be great if your service company felt the same way about you?
You deserve a service company that will stand by you. FOR LIFE. Your service company also needs to offer a transferable warranty, so you can assure future buyers that your home is resting on a solid foundation—for life.

Peak Basement Systems honors our warranties. Here’s our story:
We offer a lifetime warranty to our homeowners and a FREE, fully transferrable warranty to your future buyers for 25 years. We stand by those promises.

We have returned to Mr. Cherry’s residence on four occasions since his 2007 installation to monitor his home, complete adjustments to the equipment we installed, and to bring his home’s repairs to his complete satisfaction. We also contact Mr. Cherry twice a year to check on his home and our equipment.

Sump Pump Alarms in Pueblo

Tue, 18 Oct 2011 11:36:23 -0400

Pump Alarms

How would you know if your sump pump has failed and you are in danger of being flooded?

Unless you have an alarm, the answer is, when your basement is already flooded, which is just what you're trying to avoid. A battery powered alarm that sounds off automatically when water reaches a level above the point where the pump should normally turn on is essential. The patented WaterWatch alarm does just that telling you there is a problem before the floor gets wet so you have a chance to do something about it.

Floor Drains in Sump Lids Save Ruined Memories in Colorado Springs

Tue, 11 Oct 2011 12:04:07 -0400

There was quite a bit of rain in Colorado Springs in the last month or so. We installed a lot of sump pumps and waterproofing systems for homeowners. Over the weekend, it snowed and melted in Briargate, which led to more basement and crawlspace flooding. We received a great phone call from a client who had her waterproofing and sump pump system installed the first week of October. She said, "That floor drain in the sump lid really saved my life! My son was home from college for the weekend and had been doing a ton of laundry. Something happened and the washer overflowed into the laundry room for an entire super large load! We had boxes of baby pictures and home videos in the same room, but they didn't get wet because the washer water drained right into the sump and got discharged from the house! I'm so grateful that our precious memories weren't ruined and that a big hassle wasn't because of our new Super Sump! It's awesome!"
A Floor Drain in the Sump Lid
Not if, but when you have a plumbing leak and the water floods out onto the basement floor, you want to use your sump hole to drain the water away. With an airtight lid, the water will fill up your basement. Unlike groundwater leaks, plumbing leaks and the damage they cause maybe covered by your homeowners insurance. However, putting a floor drain in the sump lid can save you damage and heartache.

But wait, won't a sump drain allow water vapor to evaporate into my basement? Not with a properly designed drain. This drain should have a specially designed cup and ball underneath the floor drain which allows water to go down, but doesn't allow air to come up.

Airtight Sump Pump Lids for Colorado Springs Homes

Wed, 05 Oct 2011 16:27:14 -0400

I just took a phone call from a homeowner that I just had to share! A really nice homeowner and incredibly patient mom (we'll call her Stephanie) called us today with an unusual problem. Her discharge line appeared to be disintegrating, or discharging some white substance. Naturally, she was concerned and wondered if her sump pump was breaking down. We started talking and I found out that her sump was over 5 years old and pumped pretty consistently. She said that the pump had gotten noiser, too. It had happened since she and her husband had finished their basement this summer. The pump was located in the utility closet off of the bathroom. Her office and a large playroom for her two sons were also located in the basement, so she was concerned about water intrusion. I talked Stephanie through a couple of common troubleshooting tips to see if we needed to send out a service tech right away. We discovered that the sump didn't have a lid. We also discovered Stephanie's sons had been putting toilet paper in the sump pump to watch it get dragged through the pump! Naturally, this caused some pretty bad damage and it clogged the discharge line, too! Stephanie and her husband have decided to opt for a replacement pump that includes an airtight sump pump lid to dissuade the kiddos from experimenting with the sump pump further.
Airtight Sump Lid
The sump should have an airtight lid on it to prevent water from
and evaporating out of the sump hole into your basement, to stop
stuff from falling in that can clog the pump or switch, and to
quiet the system. Depending on the cover, it can also make the
installation look good too. Instead of a necessary evil in your
home, you have a thoughtfully engineered system.

Peak Basement Systems Receives Award at International Convention in Connecticut

Fri, 30 Sep 2011 14:35:22 -0400

Colorado Springs, CO– Peak Basement Systems was recently honored at a meeting of over 600 guests from all over the United States and Canada at this year’s Team Basement Systems Convention. The annual convention is held each year between Seymour, Connecticut, (where the Basement Systems headquarters is located) and Hartford, Connecticut, and brings together dealerships of the international network for classes, seminars, training, parties and networking.

This year, Peak Basement Systems received an award at the Team Basement Systems International Convention. Peak Basement Systems ranked in the Top 15 Foundation Supportworks Dealers in the United States and Canada.

The convention featured guest speakers Krish Duhnam (of the Zig Ziglar corporation), and the “Pit bull of Personal Development” Larry Winget. A sports-themed party at the Connecticut Convention Center ended the convention week with music, food and performances by the Harlem Wizards and the New England Patriots Cheerleaders.

Peak Basement Systems is a certified Basement Systems Dealer specializing in basement waterproofing, sump pump installation, basement humidity control and mold remediation in Colorado Springs and nearby areas. Peak Basement Systems provides free estimates to homeowners in the Greater Colorado Spring Area.

Basement Systems is an international network of basement waterproofing, crawl space repair and basement finishing contractors. The international headquarters, based in Seymour, Connecticut, also provides sales and service throughout Connecticut and Westchester County, NY. Larry Janesky's Basement Systems has been helping homeowners increase their usable living space for over 20 years across the United States, Canada, Ireland and the United Kingdom. They have 27 patented basement and crawl space products, designed to help homeowners get more out of their basements and increase their home's value.

Battery Back Ups on Sump Pumps for Your Colorado Springs Home

Thu, 29 Sep 2011 10:46:53 -0400

Alternate power sources?
Some alternate power sources for sometimes appeared on the market in recent years that sounded great at first review. One is the battery power system for your primary AC operated pump. When power goes out the system converts the DC power AC power and runs your only sump pump. The manufacture will tell you that it's better since your primary AC operated pump will normally pump more than a DC operated one. This is true, but not a key issue in most cases.

The main issue or problem here is that you have only one pump. If the pump fails , you get flooded despite this back up protection. Secondly, converting DC to AC power is very inefficient. You lose more than half of your power in the process. So your primary pump will run and pump plenty of water out, but not for long. In our test, it was only one hour of time and then the batteries went dead. Since the primary pump that we used pumps 2200 gallons an hour, it was just 2200 gallons of protection that the system offered.

The next type of system that sounds good is another single pump system that can be used as a primary and back up pump in one unit. It is actually a DC pump with batteries hooked up to it. When the power is on, the AC is converted to DC to run the pump. When the power is off, the pump runs on the batteries. Sounds good, but you only have one pump and if it fails, you're dead in the water--literally. In addition, no matter how strong the DC pump, you only get as much water out as is equal to the amount of battery power that you put behind the pumps .

The back up system that we recommend is called an "UltraSump". It's a DC battery operated pump that kicks in if the power goes out. It is available with one of two specially designed, 120-amp, maintenance free batteries to pump out over 12,000 gallons or over 24,000 gallons of water respectively at an 8 ft head.

Head is a term meaning how high you can pump the water. An AC pump that pumps over 2,000 gallons per hour at an 8 ft head is a good, strong pump. Likewise, a battery back up unit should give you a number of gallons it can pump per charge at an 8 ft head in order for you to know it will clear the water from your basement.

2 Issues to Remedy Before Finishing Your Colorado Basement

Tue, 20 Sep 2011 12:09:04 -0400

Before finishing a basement, it's important to have 2 issues resolved:

1. Foundation Movement

2. Basement Leaking or Flooding

These two situations can lead to lots of grief if not properly remedied prior to finishing. Here are client stories that we became a part of in the last week:

From Michael, Colorado Springs, CO 80906:"With the recent rainstorms that we sustained in El Paso County, my newly finished basement has flooded! I've lived in my home 4 years now and I've never seen a problem. I was shocked when I came home from a business trip to a very wet basement. I can see where the moisture has been absorbed into the drywall in my media room--there is bulging and puckering of the mural on the west wall. The carpet is soaked in that room and damp along the adjoining wall to the guest room. I'm not certain if the room was flooded the entire time that I was gone, but I need someone out to help me resolve this right away!"

Our Systems Design Specialist, Tom, saw Michael yesterday and they spoke at length about the project. Michael had completed his renovations less than a month ago and had just hired a local artist to do a mural of the Front Range on the west wall. The paint wasn't even dry yet on the mural! Together, Tom and Michael opted for a full basement waterproofing system with a Super Sump, battery back up, and Waterwatch alarm system. Michael was shocked to discover that a Colorado basement could flood and he was disappointed that he hadn't had the system installed prior to finishing the basement.

From JoAnne, Chipita Park, CO, 80809: "I had my basement slab releveled in 2006 due to settling in one corner. We also had it mudjacked in 2009. We finished the basement in 2009 as well. I am noticing drywall cracks in my laundry room and the southeastern wall in the den appears to be sinking. I believe that the foundation settling has not been remedied and is continuing to move despite the work we've had done. The house is currently on the market and I want to move before snow flies, but we have just lost our contract. The buyer was concerned about the foundation."

Our Structural Evaluator, Aaron, met with JoAnne and her husband last night. After evaluating the property, Aaron determined that the home was 2" out of level. JoAnne was very upset to discover that the combination of the releveling compound and mudjacking compound had thickened her slab and would involve considerably more installation time to overcome, remedy, and replace. She said, "I thought I was buying myself a quick, cheap fix and then when I jacked the foundation, I thought it would last a long time. I sorta just want to shrug and accept it's my fault--on the other hand, I want to scream that it isn't fair. I spent money and now I'm spending more to have it removed!"

JoAnne and her husband are scheduled to have 6 push piers installed in their home, as well as removal and replacement of their basement slab. They have decided to "unfinish" the basement rather than replace the carpet and other finished affects.

3 Concerns for Colorado Waterproofing Situations

Tue, 13 Sep 2011 10:33:53 -0400

Does the system sit in the mud or out of the mud?

Why? Colorado soil is composed of silty clay, which is a very fine soil that makes really goopy mud when water is introduced. Systems for your home that sit right in the dirt will get clogged quickly and that mud can get into your sump pump and discharge line, clogging the whole system. That mud can burn out a sump pump quite a bit more quickly than normal and no one wants to buy a sump pump every two years or less! Below: You can see how completely the silty clay has packed a footing drain in Rockrimmon. Problems like this occur more often when the system sits directly in the mud or soil below the footing. With an interior waterproofing system, it is doubly important to unclog pipes before they get packed like this.

Can the system be flushed to remove any debris?

Why? Any waterproofing system will eventually get some sediment in it. That's due to the extremely tiny size of our silty clay particles. There's not a filter fabric available today that will guarantee 100% clay particle free drainage lines. If the waterproofing system you select is "above the mud", you greatly reduce the clogging risk, but it's also essential to flush the system regularly to keep it running well during those crazy thunderstorms and spring melt times. Below: you can see the difused clay particles discoloring the water in the sump pump. This system is being flushed during annual maintenance.

Does the waterproofing system capture condensation or weeping from walls or wall cracks?

Why? Waterproofing systems should keep your basement dry all of the time. It's not a solid system if it can't handle the right amount of water volume, water from odd places, or the occasional wash machine overflow. The system you want should have a flange or gap to allow water from a wall crack to flow in. It should also have a floor drain at or in the sump pump lid in case a pipe breaks, or the washer overflows. Below: The Waterguard system was able to catch the water coming in from the window well during install due to the wall flange. As you can see from the wet cement, the project was not yet completed and the window well was covered and replaced.

These three questions can really help give you a functional, long lasting waterproofing system that gives you peace of mind, especially if you believe you want to finish your basement. Naturally, always check for nationally backed warranties and that your chosen company has a good standing in the community.

The history of drain tile in Colorado Springs

Tue, 06 Sep 2011 11:21:02 -0400

In the 1950s and before, clay pipe sections about 18" long were used for underground and under-floor drains. There were no holes in the pipe, but instead, the sections were laid with a 1/4" space between them to let in water. Since the pipe sections were made from clay tile material--like a chimney flue pipe or a brick--they called it drain tile. This term is still used today to refer to a pipe with holes or slots in it that is buried for drainage, even though the industry switched to plastic pipe long ago.

These generic round, perforated drainpipes have been and can be used for field drainage, exterior footing drains, road drainage, or just about anything else.

Clay or plastic, the pipe has some shortcomings:
--In field drainage, the clay was prone to breaking and cracking with melt and freeze cycles

--In exterior footing drain applications, it can be crushed by the backfilling process.

--In road drainage, the vibrational forces and pressure has caused engineering headaches resulting in metal pipes or heavy gauge plastic piping with a limited lifespan

--In interior applications, the pipe can clog easily since it sits in the backfill dirt and does not have cleaning ports.

Thankfully, there have been huge leaps forward in technology since drain tile first became popular. For example, waterproofing systems have advanced so they now sit on the footer, above the dirt. They also have viewing and maintenance ports, wall flanges to catch water from the wall, and varying sizes to move water in more situations.

Foundation Repair and Basement Waterproofing Inside Colorado Springs Homes

Tue, 30 Aug 2011 10:23:30 -0400

Why select an interior installation for waterproofing or foundation repair?

Most homeowners ask us, "You're not going to dig up the entire outside of my home are you?!"

It's true, we're not going to--it's expensive, time consuming, and ridiculously destructive. So, if digging up the outside isn't the answer, what is? Digging up the inside! Well, we actually use jackhammers to break through the slab.

Waterproofing Basements from the Inside

By installing a drainage system around the inside of the basement along the wall, you can capture water from the floor, walls, and exterior. This prevents water from reaching the inside center of the floor.
The advantages of an inside installation are:
1. Accessibility to do the job, regardless of weather 2. More affordable than an outside system 3. Installs in a day or two 4. Easily serviceable year round

Foundation Repair from the Inside

We can pier your foundation by going through the inside of your home to install the piers. This type of pier installation is actually cheaper than digging down 8’ to your foundation wall from the outside. Not only that, but it allows us to work on your home even in winter weather conditions! You also don’t have to worry about existing landscaping.

The advantages of inside installation are:
1. Groundwater fluctuations and rainwater incursion are eliminated.
2. Landscaping damage is virtually eliminated.
3. Indoor Piering is generally cheaper than exterior piering.
4. Installation time is greatly reduced

Buyers in Pueblo Demand Dry Crawlspaces

Tue, 23 Aug 2011 11:08:38 -0400

Buyers Demand Dry Crawlspaces

A great deal of our estimates in Pueblo lately have been real estate transactions. We deal with both parties, buyers and sellers, to help them move toward closing. Our evaluators are most often brought in after a home inspector has noted a concern liked a crack in a foundation wall, or the need for a sump pump.
It can be difficult to convince a buyer to purchase a home if the basement shows water damage; it's even harder to get a buyer to settle for a wet crawlspace. In fact, we have seen two Pueblo homes recently that needed encapsulation and drainage systems in their Crawlspaces. Thankfully, the buyers and sellers, in both cases, were willing to work around the installation and cost.

Higher Humidity Present in Canon City

Tue, 09 Aug 2011 10:28:01 -0400

With the damper July that we experienced in Canon City, it's not surprising that we're encountering higher humidity levels in basements throughout the area.

Since air flows upward into the upper levels of your home from the basement, it brings the humidity from the basement with it. The effects on your home can include:

Dust mites (the number one indoor allergen)

Sticking (swollen) doors and windows

Smelly, damp carpets

Buckling hardwood floors

Condensation/rotting/mold in rafters/attic due to humid air escaping into the attic and condensing against the cooler rafters

Frost or condensation and mold inside of windows as the cooler temperatures settle in at night

Increased cooling bills (damp air takes more energy to cool)

Increased heating bills (damp air takes more energy to heat)

Mold in subfloors and carpet padding

Decreased life of roof shingles and sheathing

Decreased life of paint within and without the house

Aggravated asthma and allergies

The damage to the basement itself is usually easy to spot. You will notice degenerated subfloors, cracked concrete, warped subfloors, and if the laundry facilities are in the basement (like mine are), you will notice that your dryer has a shorter lifespan because it has to work harder to dry clothes.

How Sagging Floors Get Repaired in Pueblo, CO

Thu, 04 Aug 2011 12:11:47 -0400

Most new homes along the Front Range are built with full basements. This wasn't always the case--in the 1950s, it was common to construct homes in southern Colorado with crawlspaces instead. Why? With a higher water table and warmer weather in the southern areas, it made sense. There have been several options developed over time to deal with sagging crawlspace floors. Naturally, some are old technology-style solutions and some more permenant, adjustable ones.

Concrete Columns

Concrete footings are poured throughout your crawlspace. After the concrete footings cure, concrete blocks are stacked on top of the footings, sometimes with mortar placed between the blocks. After the mortar cures, shims are placed between the uppermost concrete block and the girder for the subfloor.

Why was this used?

It was a common construction practice in the late 1940s to early 1950s and some people choose to have the failing column replaced with a replica. Other times, it's to make sure that everything matches visually. Unfortunately, this solution is really time consuming due to all the waiting for the concrete and mortar to cure. It can be quite expensive for time and labor as well. It's also not adjustable, which means that as the new column begins to settle like the old one did, additional shims must be added. These shims add weight and cause the column to shift more. In time, the column must be replaced again and the cycle starts over.

Additional Shimming of Existing Supports

A temporary jack is used to lift the girder for the subfloor to make room for pieces of timber, iron, or concrete to be added between the existing column and the girder. The temporary jacks are then removed.

Why was this used?

Frankly, it's cheap and easy! The additional shims are low cost and generally of poor quality. The time and labor can be offset by using a car jack and doing it yourself. Needless to say, this particular fix isn't going to pass a home inspection. It rarely works out to stop the squeaking and rubbery feeling of the floor because the shims are made of wood and basically expand and contract with the humidity in the crawlspace. Another concern is that the more shims that are added to the column, the more unstable the column becomes. It increases safety concerns and raises red flags to potential buyers.

Light-duty Jack Post

A concrete block is laid on top of the crawlspace soil and an adjustable telepost is tightened into the girder.

Why is this used?

A light-duty jack post can be purchased at a local hardware store and installed by pretty much everyone. It's a do-it-yourselfer's ultimate weekend project and generally turns out well when properly installed. There can be problems utilizing this solution when the teleposts are hard to adjust because then they don't fit snuggly and stablize the floor. These teleposts also don't adjust infinitely, so if the soils underneath settle, you can run out of adjustment thread to stablize the floor.

Heavy-duty Jack Post

Heavy-duty Jack posts are installed systems where a proper pad and support are installed and an adjustable telepost is plumbed and tightened into place. Generally, these systems can handle between 50,000 and 60,000 pounds, so it can bear the loads of a modern home construction.

Why is this used?

It's generally considered to be the best solution to lift walls and floors back to their original position. The pad and support system allows for load to be transferred properly and prevent future settling as much as possible. The jacks are adjustable and can easily compensate for seasonal fluctuations in older girder elasticity.

What Causes Sagging Floors in Pueblo

Tue, 19 Jul 2011 10:27:38 -0400

Sagging floors are not only a nuisance, but they can also decrease the resell value of your home. After all, it makes the buyers wonder how much longer the floor will support the weight of everything on it. This leads us to two questions:

Why is it so prevelant in Pueblo and what created this problem?

1. Existing block or brick columns are spaced too far apart.

When a crawlspace is built, block or brick, sometimes even wood, columns are located throughout the crawlspace to support the weight of the structure above. If those columns are spaced too far apart, the beam or girder can become overloaded and sag between two columns. When the girder sags, so does the floor above it.

This occurs most often in older homes, ones built prior to the 1970s, before building codes drilled down on spacing. Most of the crawlspaces in Pueblo were constructed in the 1940s and 1950s, which means that they are prone to the spacing and sagging problems.

2. Weakened floor joists and girders due to moisture and wood rot.

Because crawlspaces are often unsealed from the earth, excess moisture and humidity is a problem. Naturally, wood begins to rot, get moldy, and become weak. The weakened girders and floor joists are unable to continue supporting the weight above, and the floor above the crawlspace becomes bouncy, soft, and saggy.

This occurs more often in Pueblo because the overall outdoor temperatures are 10 to 15 degrees hotter than say, Colorado Springs, for example. Additionally, Pueblo's geography causes a basin of moist air to settle in this area as the cool air comes off the Rockies and hits the warm air in Pueblo county. The combination of moist air and a cool crawlspace equals condensation and increased mold, rot, and other issues.

3. Existing columns settle due to weak soil.

Weak soil can cause existing columns in the crawlspace to sink or settle, often creating a gap between the top of the column and the bottom of the girder it was supporting. Once the solumn settles, then the girder sags and the floors above sag. It's a chain reaction.

This occurs throughout the Front Range and isn't really specific to Pueblo County, although the amount of hydrocompactable soil is higher in the southern half of the state. Hydrocompactable soil settles and sinks with moisture introduction, so columns in high humidity crawlspaces often settle.

Floodplains in Colorado Springs

Tue, 12 Jul 2011 10:10:00 -0400

Whether you live or work in the eastern plains or western foothills of the Pikes Peak Region, you could be at risk of flooding. Within minutes, a thunderstorm can escalate into a dangerous flood. Severe thunderstorms over the mountain topography have proven to be a lethal. In 1864, 1915, 1935 and 1970, floods resulted in deaths and extensive damage in this area. More recently, the flood in 1999 caused millions of dollars in property losses.

Flash floods are usually caused by thunderstorms over the mountains during the summer months, from May through September.

Persons downstream are at the greatest risk and may not hear or see the danger.
A flash flood monitoring system, developed by Pikes Peak Regional Building Department's Floodplain Administration, continuously transmits rain and stream data to Emergency Management agencies.
When heavy rains occur, it is best to monitor local television or radio to receive current warnings and watches.
Remember that it's never safe to play in gutters or swollen streams.

Increased Groundwater = Foundation Problems

If an area has recently seen flash flooding, heavy rains followed by hot summer days, or even sprinkler breaks, the ground start to shift due to the increased moisture.

Check for:

Existing cracks weep water
Your basement has a higher relative humidity than the rest of your home.
You have elevated radon levels and cracks in your foundation
You have struggled with mold problems in the past
You notice that your basement walls and/or floors appear dark in spots.

CONTACTS:

DRAINAGE FACILITY REPAIR/MAINTENANCE

Colorado Springs Streets Division 385-5934

El Paso County Dept. of Transportation 520-6460

Calhan City Hall 347-2586

Fountain City Hall 382-8521

Green Mountain Falls Town Hall 684-9414

Manitou Springs Streets Dept. 685-5596

Monument Public Works Dept. 481-2436

Palmer Lake City Hall 481-2953

FLOOD RISK, CONSTRUCTION, INSURANCE

Pikes Peak Regional Building Dept. 327-2800

Floodplain Administration 327-2907

Floodplain website www.pprbd.org

FEMA web site www.fema.com

FEMA (toll free) 1-877-FEMAMAP

Weather information www.weatherbug.com

EMERGENCY MANAGEMENT

Colorado Springs Office 385-5957

El Paso County Office 575-840

Floodplain address search

http://www.pprbd.org/PublicAccess/AddressSearch.aspx?SearchType=Floodplain

What Sidewalks tell us about Colorado Springs Foundations

Tue, 05 Jul 2011 12:23:41 -0400

Walking through Colorado Springs in the summer is a beautiful experience! I was just recently there on a nice sunny day, walking with my friend and her 3 year old daughter. Her daughter kept tripping and falling as we walked. Mostly, it was because she wasn't watching where to put her feet, which is a must on the sidewalks around town. I asked our staff engineer why the sidewalks were so rolled and uneven. He gave me several reasons that I thought were pretty interesting. Here are the reasons slabs and sidewalks crack and buckle.

Slabs and sidewalks are barometers for foundation problems.

Since slabs and sidewalks rest directly on the "active zone" soil, they are the first elements around a home to show signs of soil movement.

Common soil conditions that manifest in slabs first:

1). Drying and shrinking of the soil

As the soil dries and shrinks, gaps form under the floor slab creating a void. Because the soil no longer supports the floor slab, the floor begins to crack and sink into the void.

2). Washout of soil

This is usually caused by heavy rain or sprinkler leaks. If the slab is in the way of a water flow, the water can wash the soil out from under the slab, creating a void. Once again, with no soil to support it, the slab cracks and sinks.

3). Poor Compaction of fill soils

During a home's construction, layers of soil are commonly moved around or spread out to get to the desired grade level. WHen the home is built, footings may be deepended to extend below weak fill soils. The slab; however, remains on the fill soils. If the fill was poorly compacted, the fill soil compresses and settles, and a void is created under the slab.

Slabs are giving you warnings about the health and stability of your foundation.

If you're noticing that:

--there are cracks in the sidewalks, slabs, and floors of your property

--floors are dropping and separating from walls, forming a gap between the floor and the wall.

--interior walls are pulling down and separating from the ceiling, forming a gap between the wall and the ceiling

--walls are pulling away from other, adjacent walls

--interior wall cracks are appearing, commonly off the corners of interior doors